The Roost, Congaree and Penn’s latest addition to their culinary portfolio, is a breath of fresh air in the world of casual dining. Nestled alongside picturesque vegetable fields, this open-air venue offers a unique blend of comfort and class. The restaurant’s creators, chefs Steve Crawford and Andrew Blanton, bring a wealth of experience to the table, having spent nearly a decade together at Congaree and Penn.
What sets The Roost apart is its commitment to sweetness, a trend that might remind some of the late food writer Nathalie Dupree’s observation that young chefs often make their savory dishes too sweet. However, in this case, it’s not about the age of the chefs but rather the inspiration drawn from the surrounding scenery and the desire to celebrate summertime bounty.
The Roost’s Sweet Sensation
The Roost’s menu is a testament to its sweet tooth. From hummus served with blackberry compote to littleneck clams finished with sweet corn butter and cantaloupe, the restaurant’s dishes are built with Brix a scientific term for sugar levels. This commitment to sweetness is evident in every dish, from the sticky-sweet orange juice lacquered grilled shrimp to the sweet cider flights.
While the drinks list isn’t extensive, it offers a smattering of wines, local beer, and homemade cider. The cider flights are a popular choice, although even the driest of them might be too sweet for some. For those looking to bring their own libations, The Roost offers a $30 corkage fee, allowing patrons to enjoy their favorite wines with their meals.
A Glimpse of Luxury
For many patrons, The Roost offers an affordable glimpse of luxury. Located on a 330-acre tract where the trees are trimmed, the livestock is spotless, and the bungalows rent for $350 a night, it’s hard not to feel a sense of ‘night out’ when dining here. The restaurant’s reasonable prices, such as the $10 pimento cheese starter, make it an accessible option for a variety of occasions.
Despite its casual setting, The Roost doesn’t skimp on quality. The menu features small plates, chicken, steak, and a burger, ensuring there’s something for everyone. The restaurant’s pickles, served in a wide-lipped bowl, offer a bright and tangy contrast to the sweetness of the other dishes. However, the vegetable selection might leave some wanting, as it seems to reference someone else’s orchard rather than the on-site garden.
The Roost’s Star Dish
Among the standout dishes at The Roost is the slow-simmered lima beans. These beans are a far cry from the bland, boring, or ordinary reputation that limas often have. Peppery and cassoulet-creamy, they’re fabulously rich and are served with a trim of grilled split okra pods. The summer squash with mashed chickpeas and salsa macha is another highlight, with the underlying chickpeas bathing in a shimmering salsa macha that’s textured with dried chiles and nuts.
For dessert, The Roost offers ice cream, pie, and banana rice pudding. The banana rice pudding is more of a banana pudding with rice than the other way around, with the scarce grains acting like sprinkles in the custard. While it’s awfully sweet, it’s a fitting end to a meal at The Roost, a restaurant that leans insouciantly into its sweet side.
